Topic Title

Anything that's long and thin enough to fit down the seatpost should work.

Update - it's getting there! The design of the post (with an "aero" section at the top like the old Athena, Chorus & Record ones) didn't help matters as the hollow section started pretty much near the seat lug. On the other hand it's pretty short, and there's only around 8-10cm of pillar inside the frame at most. I've had to change the approach a bit and make several parallel saw cuts around the tube, the idea being to drift it out in strips. Time consuming but worth it to ensure that the frame survives in one piece. Have borrowed a couple of saws from work which has helped no end!
Any suggestions for a safe choice of grease/lube (if, indeed, and at all) to use on the new alloy post that will replace it?

Dave B

None. Better yet, get a cheap carbon post and don't use grease on that either.

Did have a hunt for cheap carbon pillars, to no avail, probably 'cause it's a funny diameter; some Looks use a 25mm post, including mine, but most cheap posts seem to be either 31ish mm for oversize frames or 27.2 for standard tubing. USE, of course, do some very nice 25mm pillars....but that does mean paying USE prices!
Selcof do a forged alloy one, though, which comes in the right size and sells for about 11-12 quid. Downside is that they're designed for MTB as well as road use and so are on the lengthy side at 40cm! Out comes that hacksaw again....

Dave B

Dave - Arthurs description is correct. However rather than using a hacksaw inside the pin its much easier using a padsaw as this has a handle at one end and a meatier blade. Might be worth checking how far down inside the frame the bottom of the seatpin is as you will need to saw all the way through to the bottom of the pin. You'll know when you've reached the frame tube - the sawing noise changes pitch! Also worth using a bit of oil or spray lube in the cut - takes some of the elbow grease out of it.

Made a bit more progress last night, but reckon the job is going to take a lot longer than I thought. The material is pretty tough and, I suspect, thicker than the norm to counteract the smaller diameter. Hopefully I'll have removed a significant strip or two of pillar tonight! Maybe the going will get easier when removing the alloy from the carbon fibre, as near the top the post's corroded onto the frame lug - which is also alloy.
At this rate, though, can't see the bike getting a competitive outing for the remaining Thursday TTs this summer

Dave B

Dave - you should only need to remove one strip, then crush the remaining tube.

That's what I originally thought, but as I said in a previous post, the shape and height of the pillar mean I've had to formulate a "Plan B", due to lack of sufficient tube to get a purchase on with mole-grips or similar.

Dave B